Tre Cime Disappointment – Turned Away at the Gate
We woke up early in the morning to be among the first at the gate leading to Tre Cime in the Dolomites. There were only four cars in front of us in the queue. When the staff started working at the gate, one employee began waving vigorously towards the line. After a moment, we realized he was waving at us. It turned out that there was no space at the campsite, so we couldn't even enter the normal parking area for the day at Tre Cime. This dampened our spirits, as we had driven for 8 hours to reach the area and spent the previous day nearby solely to get to Tre Cime. This experience taught us that during peak holiday season, it's not worth trying to visit the most popular destinations in Central Europe with a campervan without a prior reservation.
Return to Austria and Wild Camping at the Foot of a Mountain
We once again used Google Maps to search for good climbing spots and decided to head back to southwestern Austria. This time, we aimed to choose a less-known area so we could enjoy peaceful wild camping and finally get some more climbing done. However, the journey from the Dolomites back to Austria was incredibly congested, and for most of the way, we moved at a jogging pace on narrow country roads in a queue.
Once we reached Austria, the traffic started to ease, and we continued driving until evening, searching for good wild camping spots near climbing routes using the Park4Night app. Eventually, we found a nice spot high up on a mountain. A larger road ran through a tunnel next to the spot, so the road noise didn't reach the parking area, and the views were stunning.
Alpine Stream as a Washbasin and a Starry Sky
The car heater still wasn't working, so the cold mountain mornings invariably woke us up early. Next to the parking spot, a small alpine stream babbled, serving as an improvised wash station. Although washing in the ice-cold water was literally a chilling experience, gazing at the star-studded sky while washing in the stream made it a memorable one.
We spent the next two days on climbing routes in the nearby area, but we always camped at this same spot. The place was secluded, peaceful, and offered magnificent views – definitely the best wild camping spot of the trip. Here, we could be completely undisturbed.
One night, a thunderstorm front swept over the mountain again, and we watched its progress from the shelter of the car. Lightning flashed over the mountain peaks, and the thunder rumbled through the valley. Although the storm was powerful, observing it from the car was safe and somehow hypnotic – witnessing the forces of nature so closely in comfortable conditions is something that traveling by campervan makes possible.
Klettersteig Gaublick – The Last Ascent of the Trip
For the last ascent of our trip, we chose Klettersteig Gaublick, which we had researched beforehand and deemed challenging enough but doable for us. However, access to the route was not entirely effortless, as the hike to the starting point of the via ferrata proved to be significantly longer than we had estimated. The steep five-hour uphill trek started to take its toll on our legs, and fatigue began to set in.
Even though the schedule was tightening and evening was approaching, we decided to continue and did not want to give up after all that climbing. We knew that descending the mountain in the dark, despite headlamps, could make the return journey risky. Especially hiking down steep and uneven paths in the dark would require precise concentration with every step.
Despite the scheduling challenges, the route enticed us with its scenery and excitement, and we knew this would be a perfect end to the adventure.
Vertical Cliff and a Cave Along the Route
The via ferrata itself was a magnificent experience and definitely one of the highlights of the trip. The route traversed high along an almost vertical cliff face, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. One of the unique features of the route was a cave located along the way, passing through which added an extra touch of excitement and uniqueness to the adventure.
Although the climbing section itself was impressive, the relationship between the long hike leading to the start of the route and the climbable section itself left a little to be desired. The long uphill trek depleted our energy and made the overall experience of the route feel more like a hike than pure climbing. However, the climbing section lived up to expectations with its stunning scenery and unique details.
Silence at the Summit and a Race Against Darkness
The journey to the summit was long and demanding, lasting approximately eight hours without extended breaks. The warm weather of the day had led us to underestimate the coolness of the evening, and we hadn't brought enough warm clothing. With our provisions running low and daylight gradually fading, it was clear that we needed to descend quickly.
Although the cold and the rush pressed on us, I still tried to enjoy every moment and every view during the return journey. We also encountered several wild animals in the mountains, such as deer, which followed us cautiously from a distance. We managed to descend the steepest section just before darkness fell.
Headlamps, Starry Sky, and the Return Home
Hiking in the dark forest added its own special atmosphere to the trip. In the light of our headlamps, the eyes of forest animals gleamed in the night, creating an exhilarating yet calming ambiance. Although our tired steps weighed heavily, the star-lit sky and the thought of the warmth and dinner awaiting us in the campervan kept our motivation high. The hike down felt like a rewarding conclusion to a long and unforgettable day.
The Volkswagen proved to be a reliable partner and began to feel like home during the trip. The hike stretched to over 12 hours total without proper breaks, and when we finally returned to the car, we were exhausted but satisfied. We decided right then to drive back to our familiar wild camping spot at the foot of the mountain. This hike was tough enough that the next day we unanimously decided to head back home to Finland. Traveling by campervan made such a decision easy – we weren't tied to flights, accommodations, or any pre-planned schedule.
Journey Home Through Four Countries and the Lessons Learned
Our journey home took us through Austria, Germany, Denmark, and Sweden towards Kapellskär. The drive was sometimes monotonous, but thanks to the campervan, the days could be paced according to our energy levels. We slept overnight in truck stops, which provided a quick and effortless solution for rest. Finally, on the Swedish side, we boarded Finnlines' new ferry from Kapellskär to Naantali. This route proved to be an excellent choice: modern and comfortable ships, reasonable prices, and a fast, one-day crossing from Sweden to Finland – a strong recommendation!
This trip completely transformed our perceptions of traveling by campervan. It offered freedom, flexibility, and the opportunity for spontaneous adventure in a way that no other mode of travel can provide. After the trip, we longed for more and immediately began planning our next campervan adventures. If you haven't tried campervanning yet, I highly recommend it – you might be surprised how addictive and rewarding it can be!
